Lauraspassport After a month in Thailand, it was time to move on. So here we are, on our way to Laos! This border crossing between Thailand and Laos is a little different from other border crossings, as this time the boat, the slowboat, is waiting for us on the other side of the border. In this article, I’ll explain everything you need to know about crossing the Hiang Khong – Huay Xai border in Laos, as well as my 2-day slow boat experience on the Mekong.
How do I get there?
You have two options for making this journey.
- The first option is to book an all-inclusive package from one of the many agencies or guesthouses in Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai.
- The second option is to take your backpack and your courage in both hands and use the self-drive mode. An option that often works very well in Southeast Asia!
Crossing the border between northern Thailand and Laos by boat
Planning your trip to Laos? Here you’ll find my Laos itinerary for a 12-day trip!
Price comparison: Thailand – Laos border
Here are the prices we found (on average) in February 2023.
By booking the trip through your guesthouse or agency
- All-inclusive package from Chiang Rai = 1,600 baht (transfer and slowboat ticket, excluding tuktuk fare to the boat)
On your own
- Local bus Chiang Rai – Chiang Khong = 130 baths (including 70 baths for the trip to customs and 50 baths to cross the bridge between Thailand and Laos, also known as the Friendship Bridge). Walking is not permitted.
- Tuktuk (Laos side) to boat dock = 80 baht
- Slowboat ticket to Luang Prabang = 800 baht = 400,000 KIP
All in all, you can get away with about 1010 bahts if you organize it yourself, instead of 1600 bahts with an organized tour. A small saving, and complete freedom to visit Chiang Rai or Chiang Khong and their respective regions, which I highly recommend!
Border crossing from Chiang Rai to Laos – The steps
Below, I describe the stages involved in crossing the border from Hiang Khong (Thailand) to Huay Xai (Laos).
1. Getting to the Chiang Rai Border:
- There are no direct flights from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai.
- You’ll need to take a bus or taxi from Chiang Rai to the border crossing.
- Local buses are the most economical option. It costs 70 baths per person to get through the Thai customs + 50 baths to cross the Friendship Bridge (border crossing between Thailand and Laos). You need to know that once you pass the Thai customs, you need to take a bus to the Lao customs by passing through a bridge.
- Taxis offer a more convenient and direct option, but they will be more expensive.
It takes approximately 2 hours to get from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai by direct bus (not counting time spent at border controls).y
2. Thai Immigration:
- Once you arrive at the Thai border, locate the immigration checkpoint.
- Requirements:
- Valid passport (ensure it has at least 6 months validity remaining)
- Completed Thailand Departure Card (usually provided on the bus or available at the immigration office)
- Process:
- Queue up for Thai immigration.
- Present your passport and completed departure card to the immigration officer.
- Pay any departure fees (if applicable).
- Collect your stamped passport.
3. Crossing the Friendship Bridge:
- After clearing Thai immigration, walk across the Friendship Bridge, which spans the Mekong River and connects Thailand to Laos.
- Enjoy the views of the river along the way!
4. Laos Immigration:
- Upon arrival at the Laos border, proceed to the immigration checkpoint.
Requirements: (Important Note: Always check the latest visa requirements for Laos before your trip, as they can change)
- Valid passport
- Visa:
- Many nationalities, including those from the US, Canada, most European countries, and Australia, can obtain a Visa on Arrival (VOA) at the border.
- VOA Requirements:
- Completed Laos visa application form (usually provided at the immigration office).
- You’ll pay for the visa a little further on at another post. Visa fees vary according to your citizenship (around 30 USD) and time of arrival (an extra 1 USD or 40 baht is charged for arrivals outside working hours).
- Visa fees must be paid in US dollars, as this is the cheapest option. Whenever possible, it is best to avoid paying in Thai currency, as the exchange rate is disadvantageous to Laotian immigration.
- One passport-sized photo
- USD cash for the visa fee (amounts can vary, so check beforehand)
- Alternative: If you require a different type of visa, you may need to apply for it in advance at a Laos embassy or consulate.
- Process:
- Queue up for Laos immigration.
- Submit your passport, completed visa application form (if applicable), photo (if applicable), and visa fee (if applicable) to the immigration officer.
- You may be asked questions about your trip to Laos.
- If everything is in order, you will receive a visa stamp on your passport.
- Collect your stamped passport.
Please note: Damaged dollars will not be accepted! Make sure you have your tickets!
5. Entering Laos:
- After clearing Laos immigration, you’ve officially entered Laos!
- You may encounter money changers offering to exchange Thai Baht for Lao Kip. The exchange rate might not be the most favorable, so consider exchanging currency beforehand or using ATMs in Huay Xai.
- Once you’ve passed this formality, you’ll need to take a tuk-tuk of some kind to get to the boat. The options for getting to Huay Xai (boat departure) are limited unless a Laotian friend with a car comes to meet you: haggle over the excessive price and share a songthaew with other travelers for the 12 km journey, or start walking along the road and try hitchhiking (difficult, but not impossible). We paid 40,000 LAK or the equivalent of 80 baht per person.
Boarding the slowboat
How to buy tickets
When you arrive at the border crossing to apply for your visa, one (or more) of the smart guys will probably ask you if you’ve already booked your slow boat tickets. If you tell him you haven’t, he’ll offer to buy them for you (as the ticket offices close at 10 a.m. despite the boat’s 11:30 a.m. departure, yes sir…), promising you the best seats on board. Don’t believe him, he’s just trying to make a small profit on your tickets.
Make your way to the slow boat pier (by tuktuk or on foot for the brave), the ticket office a little further up is open at least until 11 a.m., and you’ll pay the official fare. After that, you’re free to board whenever you like.
Take your tickets for both days, as there is an overnight stop at Pakben village, and a second boat continues the following day to Luang Prabang. We paid 400,000 kip per person. You can pay in baht, kip or dollar.
Conclusion: You’ll need to spend around €65 from Chiang Rai, all-inclusive (transport, visa on arrival, and boat).
The route and practical information
The slow boat departs daily at 11:30 a.m. (sometimes with delays). Before boarding, you can buy sandwiches and cookies at the top of the quay. On the boat, there’s plenty to drink (lots of beer), but not much to eat apart from chips and cookies.
- Seats are supposed to be numbered on the boat, but nobody seems to respect that. If you have a choice, don’t sit too far back – the motor is anything but electric!
- Take something to eat and drink before getting on the boat
The ferry stops from time to time to let Laotian passengers on and off. Every time we head for shore, little children run to the water’s edge to wave and giggle – it’s the excitement of the day in this humble, inaccessible region.
On the first few days, the boat runs from 11.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m., stopping at the village of Pakbeng.
Overnight in Pakbeng village
You can either book your night in advance on the booking.com website or via the locals once you’ve arrived. We booked our room via Booking for €10 per night. This price included a private room with a private bathroom. If you don’t have a reservation, don’t worry, plenty of locals are waiting for you at the boat exit to negotiate rooms.
In the village of Pakbeng, you’ll find several places to eat in the evening. During this stopover, we took the opportunity to buy a SIM card for €6 for 80GB for 1 month. The next day, we paid for breakfast and lunch at the hotel for €3.50.
Your host will provide an extra breakfast and a sandwich for lunch. You can also buy your lunch in the village before boarding the boat.
The boat leaves again the next day at around 9 a.m., arriving in the town of Luang Prabang in the late afternoon. The sunset reflects on the Mekong, marking the end of a two-day journey… and the start of a new adventure in the heart of Laos.
